Furyu

The broth makes an immediate impression with its dense, full-bodied texture. At Fūryū 梅島本店, the tantanmen draws on Sichuan cooking, while bringing roasted sesame aroma and the richness of a creamy paste to the fore. Moderate heat is balanced by a clean acidity, and as you eat, the broth clings naturally to the thick, chewy noodles.

Alongside the classic tantanmen, there are several topping combinations: negi tantanmen with a generous mound of crisp green onions, chashu tantanmen topped with tender meat, and negi chashu tantanmen piled with both. A small bowl of rice, served complimentary, makes a welcome finish once the noodles are gone. Spoon the rice into the remaining broth, along with the generous amount of minced meat settled at the bottom, and enjoy every last bit of its deep, savoury flavour.

Large gyoza, packed with filling, make a substantial partner for the noodles. They come in portions of three or five, and can also be enjoyed with a beer and negi chashu as a light evening drink and snack. Beyond tantanmen, the menu also includes shoyu ramen made with a chicken- and pork-bone base, offering another option to suit the mood.

The restaurant is close to Umejima Station, with most of the seating at counters surrounding the kitchen. With ticket-machine ordering, it is an easy place to drop in at lunchtime or in the evening, including for a solo meal with a deeply flavoured sesame broth.